Ciucas Mountains

For many hikers, Ciucas is the most beautiful "small" massif in Romania. It is not very high, but it has something few mountains have: rocks sculpted by wind and rain into incredible shapes resembling towers, mushrooms or human figures. The ridges are quieter than those of the Bucegi, and the views are spectacular. The most convenient starting point, the resort of Cheia, is about 111 kilometres from Gherghita.

About the massif

The Ciucas massif is part of the Curvature Carpathians, in the chain of the Eastern Carpathians. It lies east of the upper courses of the Teleajen and Tarlung rivers and borders the Tataru and Siriu mountains to the south-east and east, the Intorsura Depression to the north and the Grohotis mountains to the west.

The highest peak is Ciucas Peak, at 1,954 metres. Other important peaks are Gropsoare (1,883 m), Tigaile Mari (1,844 m) and Zaganu (1,817 m). The massif has two main ridges, Ciucas – Bratocea and Gropsoarele – Zaganu, joined by the saddle of Mount Chirusca.

What makes Ciucas special is its ruin-like relief: the conglomerates the mountains are made of have been eroded into strange shapes. The best known are Tigaile and the group of rocks called Babele la Sfat (the Old Women in Council). Part of the massif is a nature reserve and Natura 2000 site, with meadows, bilberry, juniper and dwarf pine scrub and rare plants, including edelweiss.

Wildlife and nature

Bears, red deer, wild boar, lynx, foxes and chamois live in the Ciucas mountains, and golden eagles and other birds of prey can be seen in the sky. That is why responsible behaviour in the mountains is essential: do not leave food in sight and keep your distance from wild animals.

Huts and starting points

• Cheia resort, the main starting point, with hotels and guesthouses
• The Muntele Rosu complex, whose original hut was built in 1948, a good stop on the trail
• Ciucas Hut, formerly the Alexandru Vlahuta hut, completely rebuilt on Mount Chirusca, with views of the ridges
• The Bratocea Pass, on the road between Prahova and Brasov, where other trails also start

Recommended trails

• Cheia – Muntele Rosu: an easy trail, good for a first walk in the massif
• Muntele Rosu – Ciucas Hut – Tigaile: a moderate trail, with the most spectacular rock formations
• Ciucas Hut – Ciucas Peak: a ridge climb, for hikers in good physical shape

Walking times depend on the trail and your pace. Use an up-to-date map and follow the trail markings.

When to go

The best time is from June to October. In early summer the meadows are full of flowers, and in autumn the colours and light are superb. In winter the massif becomes difficult, with snow, fog and wind, and is recommended only for those with experience and equipment.

One-day itinerary

• 07:00 – leave Gherghita, via Valenii de Munte, on the DN1A
• 09:00 – arrive in Cheia or at Muntele Rosu
• 09:30 – trail to Ciucas Hut and Tigaile
• 12:30 – a break with a view, perhaps at the hut
• 13:30 – walk back down
• 16:00 – drive back to Gherghita

At a glance

• Distance from Dracula Land: about 111 km to Cheia, around 2 hours
• How much time to allow: a full day
• Best time: June – October
• Suitable for: hikers in good shape, photographers
• What you will find: Ciucas Hut, the Muntele Rosu complex, marked trails

How to get there from Dracula Land

From Gherghita to Cheia it is about 111 km, around 2 hours: towards the Ploiesti area, then through Valenii de Munte on the DN1A, along the Teleajen Valley. The road to Ciucas Hut along the Berii stream valley is gravel, and the last part is accessible only by 4x4.

Safety tips

• Set off early and check the forecast; summer storms are common in the afternoon.
• Take water, food, layers of clothing and a waterproof jacket.
• Tell someone which trail you are taking. In an emergency call 112.

Tigaile and Babele la Sfat

The best-known formations in Ciucas are Tigaile Mari and Tigaile Mici, tall rocks with shapes that recall towers or human heads. Next to them is the group of rocks called Babele la Sfat, which, seen from certain angles, looks like old women gathered for a chat. These shapes were created over thousands of years by wind, water and frost eroding the conglomerates. In good weather, morning and evening light shows them off spectacularly.

Photography and tranquillity

Ciucas is one of the best places nearby for photographers. Early in the morning, when the mist rises from the valleys, or in autumn, when the meadows turn copper, the landscape is hard to forget. Because the massif is less crowded than the Bucegi, you can easily find quiet spots far from the bustle.

Where to stay

A day in Ciucas ends perfectly with a quiet evening. See accommodation near Dracula Land, in and around Gherghita.